We made our first big journey into the open wildness of the Kalahari. Mabuasehube is part of the transnational Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, which extends through Botswana, South Africa and Namibia. It’s a huge allocation of land known for its lions, diverse bird life, arid climate, acacia thorn trees, scrub and flowing dry, golden grasses around the huge barren pans that were once great inland lakes. You can see across an entire pan and watch springbok graze as they head back and forth to one of the few small watering holes.
We did some driving during our time in the reserve, but not a lot. We were lucky that a lot of the wildlife came to us, or at least spent time near our camp, so we didn’t have to go far. Nice! Not a lot of driving required. When we did drive, we found the trails through the reserve were ok but sometimes a bit difficult with the soft sand. Our days were hot, usually around 107°F (about 42 celsius) and the nights and early mornings were wonderfully cool. We usually slept with the tent screens open, so it was a bit like sleeping on an open platform, about 8 feet off the ground. There weren’t really any mosquitos but, nonetheless, I managed to get bit plenty by something or other in the night. It was worth it though to sleep in the open air.
One question, too, for the park management: why would you install black toilet seats on the spiral enclosed drop toilets? It’s a nice idea to have a little perch if you use the facility, but any idea how crazy hot those seats get in the direct sun?! (For the record, I did my best to go out with a shovel au naturel because I just can’t sit over a hole abuzz with activity. It just is too much. I draw the line.
We met a lovely couple, Roger and Julia, who were our camping buddies after the first night when we found our campsite double-booked. It was fortuitous since Roger and Julia knew so much about the bush, and they were our rescuers when it came to the lions. They were also pretty darn good company. We sat out under the stars in the evening and listened to the sounds of the bush, ears always on alert for predators approaching. (The silent leopard was my great fear, but the lions ran a very close second). Roger and Julia were relaxed and sensible. And Roger showed me how to set my camera to photograph the night sky. I will be trying it soon. The Milky Way is extraordinary! We should have even better views in Namibia, I think.
For anyone heading into Mabua, we learned that the cutline track running to Kokotsha is the better way in and out of the area (thank you, Roger!). The drive from Hukuntsi is much more difficult. We took the easier route back from the reserve and stayed overnight at Meyer’s Guesthouse in Jwaneng before getting back to Gaborone. You could drive the whole thing if you don’t mind an 8-9 hr day. The only cautions for any driving is deflate your tires for the sandy tracks and, anywhere in the country, watch out for the donkeys on the road! Animals on the road are a problem, so don’t drive at night and be ready to dodge and stop for cattle, donkeys, and goats. (The goats are the smartest, cattle next, and the donkeys are just impossible and stubborn.)
With the lions, we actually got to see the group of three males that roamed together and roared in the night. They found shade just below our campsite on the third night. The day before, Roger gave us a tip about where to find a lioness and her (very big) juvenile cubs. And, of course, we had the visit from the pride of seven lions at our Mpaya #1 campsite. Here are some pictures of the wandering males just below our campsite and the lioness and her cubs we later saw under the tree.
At every campsite, we always had company: mongooses, spurfowl, and our magnificent leopard at Mpaya campsite #2. And, of course, our lions! Here are some pictures and another lion video for you!
Our mongoose Rogerio:
Our magical leopard at the Mpaya 2 Campsite:
We kept trying to get our garbage bag back…
Much more to follow! We head to Khutse Game Reserve tomorrow morning.