We just finished a wonderful week at Karpaha Sands on the east coast near Kalkudah in Sri Lanka. This east coast area is predominantly Tamil, so we got a different experience of the island–a new language and a new context for learning about the place. The luxurious beach-front tented bungalows were fully booked, or we would have tried to stay an extra couple of nights. Umberto was a great host and the staff were incredibly nice (thank you Dulip and Priyanka and everyone!). We enjoyed dosas and eggs and Sri Lankan breakfasts with local fruits and teas. I learned to say good day and thank you in Tamil and Sinhala. I could almost count to five in Tamil by the time we left, but I could never get the hang of “4”, so I’m a little limited.
The outside temperature on the beach usually ran in the low- to mid-nineties. We hung out at the pool or in the shade on our deck to with the fan running above us. Sand at the water’s edge was carved into a steep incline, so the surf pounded more than expected and the waves washed back and forth with a lot of pull and push. Each time I walked into the surf knee-high, the wave motion knocked me straight down on my butt and filled my swimsuit with sand. I came out a sandy mess, but still happy with my momentary jaunt into the ocean. Just past the small swells, the rest of the water was calm. Each morning and afternoon the fishermen were out on the beach with their nets, pulling fish in at the shore, or just coming in after a night on their boat.
During our time at the beach, we needed to run some errands—ATM and a little shopping—so we decided to hire a tuk tuk for 3 hours to take us around Valaichchenai, the nearest town. The driver was very nice. He made sure we got everything we needed, showed us the fish market and dropped us off at a little outdoor restaurant outside of town for lunch.
In town, Richard picked up some new flip flops ($2.50) and we stopped to look around the fish market. I checked a shop for a sarong, but all of them were men’s and too bulky for me. I would have needed to get a dress or sari to get a lighter fabric. I think the shop keepers were a little puzzled that I was asking for a sarong for myself, but they were very nice about it.
Other than our one trip to town, we stayed at the beach. The meals at the restaurant were fabulous! They even treated us to a beach front table on the sand with a bonfire on our last night. The cushions on the sand were a beautiful touch, but thank god no one except Richard saw me trying to get out of the damn things. It wasn’t a pretty picture.
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