We left Onduli at the end of March after extending our stay and skipping the White Lady/Brandberg Mountain and drove straight to Erongo Rocks. We had a pleasant surprise heading into the Erongo Mountain area from the town of Omaruru. It turned out that Erongo Rocks is actually located within a protected area–The Erongo Mountain Rhino Sanctuary Trust. There are several local farms and small lodges that dot the long, bumpy, rocky road that runs through the sanctuary. As we drove the 40 kilometers from town to campground, we kept an eye out for rhinos, but unfortunately didn’t see any. We did see giraffe, though.
One thing I asked when we arrived: are there any leopards around? Answer: there have been leopards from time to time near the campsites, but none spotted recently. According to the Rhino Trust website there’s a healthy population of leopards in the sanctuary. Not surprising. It’s a perfect place for them among the rocks with plenty of prey around. Having leopards is always good and bad. They are so magnificent to see, but I’m more scared of them than any other animal we encounter, excepting elephants, which I also love and fear. One thing I learned in chatting with the owner was that there had been an unusual and rare leopard attack on a couple in their rooftop tent in the Mabuasehube Reserve a couple of weeks after we were there. I read that the leopard was in very bad shape, probably injured, starving and desperate for food. It was a strange feeling to read about such a thing so near in time to when we were there and at a campsite where we had stayed before. There was a long discussion of the incident on the 4×4 forum. It was just so strange to think about.
At Erongo Rocks, we stayed at the Granite campsite and absolutely loved it. The campground only has five sites and all are spaced far apart so they’re very private. The sites are built into the boulders and are spectacular in every way. We had some limited wifi at the office and drove up a few times to get online and plan our routing to South Africa. The couple who owns the campground were very nice and helpful. It was also great that they had a small shop with all the basics — some food, wine, beer and firewood, and some lovely designed journals. We bought a couple of beers and sat at the table with our atlas and cell phones as we researched where to go next.
We were going to do a long drive to our Mount D’Urban campsite, a place we know and love, but going straight to Mount D’Urban would mean skipping Donkerhuk Farm West, which was our next planned stop on the itinerary. We were rushing a bit at this point because we wanted to get across the border to South Africa and breathe a sigh of relief with a new visa stamped in our passports. Our visas were expiring a week too early and we weren’t sure we could get another stamp. We’d actually only been in South Africa for two weeks, just at the beginning of our trip, but the 90-day clock was ticking regardless, and we had heard mixed things about getting back in.
After an afternoon of researching options over a beer at the outdoor table up at the main office, we got a chance to talk to the husband-owner. He grew up in Namibia and knows it well. He’s camped everywhere, and he told us not to miss Donkerhuk Farm, so we kept to the itinerary and went to Donkerhuk.
Donkerhuk Farm West was a find! It’s off the beaten path and shows up on Google Maps as Donkerhuk Safaris. The camping at Donkerhuk is far removed from the farmhouse. You find it after passing through a few gates and cow pastures. I’m the gate opener, so I always get out and unchain or unlatch the big gates, swing them open, then swing them back and re-secure them. I stepped in a lot of cow crap doing it this time, and I have to say I was a little worried getting out with all the cows milling around near me at the gate, and I was definitely wary of the big cow/bull. He (she, maybe?) watched me the whole time I was out of the rig. I think I’m a bit wimpy when it comes to standing in front of large animals that could trample me. I got back in the rig and we crossed the fields, passed through another gate, and then drove a few more kilometers to a secluded valley. We camped at Duiker’s Den, one of the few campsites. It was wonderfully private and isolated. The valley, we were told, is full of wildlife. Since we only had an afternoon/evening, we didn’t see a lot, but we did see some kudu in the trees. My only worry, as you know I always worry, was seeing a snake or scorpion (or a leopard). All was good though. We relaxed and enjoyed the site. Too bad we didn’t book more nights, same for Erongo Rocks.
For some reason, I neglected taking pictures at Erongo and Donkerhuk (except the sign, I did take that picture!). I don’t think the owners will mind that I’ve borrowed a few of their pictures here to show you the campsites.
Erongo Rocks — Granite Campsite
Donkerhuk Farm West – Duiker’s Den
Next, after a good night’s sleep, we got on our way to Mount D’Urban campsite.